Translated from: The Everest Survival Guide
Explorersweb.com is a website dedicated to tracking adventure activities. In 2004, Forbes magazine was selected as the annual website of the adventure category.
Their “Guofeng Survival Guide†and “K2 Survival Guide†have comprehensively and concretely summarized the personal experience of a group of top masters. Reading them should be instructive for both rookie and heroes.
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The following are our recommended Everest highly adaptable timetable:
Trek to BC, arrive 10 days in BC, climb C1 on April 1, stay on April 7th, C1
Return to BC, climb C2 on April 8th, return to BC on April 11th, climb C2 on April 13th, climb C3 on April 17th, return to BC on April 19th, and return downward on April 20th, April 21st Return to BC, try for the first time on April 26, return to withdraw on May 1~7, return to BC on May 7~12, try to reach the summit on May 13th, May 16~30
This timetable has retained a great deal of time to deal with the various diseases that occur during the slow climb and to get a good rest. Moreover, this arrangement can be used for two to three attempts at pitching. However, you are required to enter BC as soon as possible and leave later. This must also be based on the route ropes and camps along the way.
Of course, the weather conditions are the ultimate determining factor! But with the above schedule, you can be sure that you will be holding the climbing window that usually appears in the first five months of May and the end of May.
In 1999, during the trial of the Everest Internet experiment, we eliminated the need for C3 adaptation.
We started to use the above schedule two years before that, and found that the sleep in C3 did not help us to adapt to the height, but it made everyone's status drop. So, now we stay longer in C2 (5-7 days) and climb up to 7,000 meters during the stay (the beginning of LhotseFace). In addition, after staying at C1 for 2 to 3 days, we usually direct C2 from C1.
This means that we climb from BC to C1, stay there for 2 to 3 days, continue climbing to C2, stay there for 5 to 7 days (repeatedly climbing LhotseFace), and then return to BC where we rest in the valley around activity.
For us, this approach means spending more time on the BC and reducing the frequent dangers and losses that go up and down. At the same time, it also provides plenty of time to rest at low altitudes (in addition to the five-day duration of the trekking phase), and it can be put in time when the climbing window arrives. This adaptation process allowed us to maintain a good physical condition while trying to reach the summit.
However, we still do not recommend to you that we skip the C3 adaptation because the premise is that you are already familiar with C3 and C3 and above. For the first time, it takes a lot of good for you to take the time to understand the route before trying to hit the top! In addition, the way we skip the C3 adaptation requires you to be very clear about your physiological response to high altitude.
Only when you do not have time can you consider skipping a certain adaptation phase. Instead of taking a smashing sprint, you may as well take the time to rest in the BC Valley. Anatoli Boukreev always said that the most critical thing for climbing Mount Everest is to have an altitude hike. We usually walk down to Debouche, a tree line at 3,800 meters above sea level, to allow fresh oxygen and forests to refresh our tired body and mind.
You can digest better and fall asleep in the United States and America, and you can review your climbing process well. The wounds and pain caused by climbing can heal quickly. As long as a few days, you feel more shocked and stronger.
Some mountain friends do not like to descend on foot and fear that they are infected by colds carried by other walkers. Our experience is that even with such risks, it is still worthwhile to hike to a lower level, and consider the great benefits of restoring your physical state at low altitudes.
If you complete the adaptation process early, even a brief cold will not cause you major damage. However, do not stay too long at low altitude because you do lose some of the body's adaptation to high altitudes.
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