The title was drafted two days when the 4.7km camp was idle.
I believe many of my friends had thought of climbing as magnificent as I did, and I was tortured by the high altitude environment. The following are some personal experiences. I hope everyone will join us to discuss how to protect ourselves in the harsh environment above the snow line and make ourselves more comfortable.
The following is a brief description of Tian Haizi’s feelings in the past few days.
On the first day, we climbed from 4.1km to 4.5km and we spent about 10 hours. Because I had slept with a small amount of food and slept, there was no major alpine reaction other than a headache. (taking Sanlitong and black tablets)
The next day, climb to 4.7kmABC, about 3 hours. Short distances and little physical exertion. About 22 points have been sleeping bags ready to rest, Blizzard and accompanied by lightning, fearing that the tent was blown out of the wind and reinforced with stones, toss about nothing sleep, so that can not sleep all night. At that time, I felt that I had to turn over each breath and I felt a slight hallucination. I was confused. (taking Sanlitong and black tablets)
On the third day, he returned from 5km light body and about 8 hours back and forth. On the way, there was a vomiting sensation due to too fast movements. After returning to the camp, he soon became drowsy. He vomited after drinking some water, but he did not sleep until afterwards. (taking Sanlitong, Noriticon and Black Tablets)
In the fourth and fifth days, there was no violent activity and the body was normal. (No medication)
On the sixth day, it was withdrawn for about 4 hours. Basically normal. (No medication)
The following are some of the experiences of snowline camping.
First, sleep
This is a crucial point that directly affects the physical strength of the next day. On the first day, half of the people on the plateau couldn't sleep normally. I didn't fall asleep at Erfeng in BC in 2003, but I was quite good at that time, although there were some physical reactions later. This time, ABC had not slept for a night. She was a bit embarrassed in the morning and gave up on C1 after careful consideration.
1) Down sleeping bag
This time I used OZARK 1.5kg gray goose down, but I still feel cold. One of the factors is that my body is cold and lacks calories. Another factor is the maintenance of sleeping bags.
Feather activity is high, often found under the body is very thin down, only to shake the sleeping bag to make even down.
In the mountain camps, because of the uneven terrain, the external accounts could not be straightened and separated from the internal accounts. In this way, as soon as the snow and the internal accounts were stuck together, they would freeze together. In addition, the bottom of the tent remains wet even if there is a seat on the snow. We were wet on and off tents on ABC for a few nights, so the sleeping bags would also dampen the warmth. At that time, I saw that the pig's hoof was wrapped in a sleeping bag jacket. Whether or not the water in the tent was sleeping, I regret that I didn't put the camping bag on my back.
It is advisable to use a camping bag or a sleeping bag jacket to keep water, or to add a layer of air to keep warm.
2) moistureproof mat
In view of the fact that the snow is located at the bottom of the camp, damp proof mats are important.
In the past, I didn't like to use the inflatable pad on the plateau because it was troublesome. However, this time I saw that the flat plate and the wave-shaped foam pad were all wetted by the bottom water. It was different from the inflatable pad. Another way is to bring 2 foam dampproof mats, which is recommended by a friend who is climbing the beads.
3) Drugs
Because Auntie is a doctor, there are many minor illnesses, so I used to take medicine when I was young. I have some psychological reliance on drugs, and I have a small bag of essential medicines.
The main medication used this time was Sanlitong and black tablets.
There is no doubt about the effectiveness of Sanitary Pain, which can quickly relieve headaches. The main reason for taking black tablets was to promote sleep, but it was not very effective when I first arrived at ABC. I took hypnotics but did not take it. I do not oppose taking sleeping pills in the special conditions of the plateau, although there may be side effects. I used to use it twice in Tibet because I couldn't sleep and made myself fretful. At the time, my other altitude sickness was not serious and my mind was completely clear.
* Careful use of the drug should be taken in any case.
4) Others
Drinking water
Many people will have this experience - they are waking up in the middle of the night and waking up in the morning is also an intervention. Therefore, it is advisable to drink enough to sleep before going to bed.
At first, I was worried that drinking water was more troublesome in the toilet. Later, I found that drinking more water in the evening was still thirsty in the morning, and my lips were always turned out. Of course, the nutritional water with taste is best, and enough water can regulate the physical discomfort caused by the bad environment. In addition, it is best to drink plenty of water in the first half hour before departure, which is more effective than drinking water after dehydration on the way.
Air circulation
The air in the tent must be circulated. When we wake up from the nighttime, we often feel a headache. This is mostly caused by lack of oxygen because we consume the oxygen in the tent at night. Also because the lack of oxygen can stand up in the morning and may not be stable, this is not to worry about, drill out tent activities will be restored.
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