Basic knowledge of yarn (-)
Yarn is a continuous linear object made of various textile fibers. It is thin and soft, and has the basic properties required for textile processing and final product use. Yarn is mainly used for weaving woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, knitted fabrics and some non-woven fabrics, and a small number of them directly exist in the form of linear textiles, such as various sewing threads, plush threads, embroidery threads, thread ropes and their threads.
Yarns are classified according to raw materials
1. Pure spinning yarn Pure spinning yarn is composed of the same fiber, such as pure cotton yarn, wool yarn, viscose fiber yarn, acrylic yarn, polyester yarn, nylon yarn and so on.
2. Blended (blended fiber) yarn Blended or twisted yarn is a yarn composed of two or more fibers, such as polyester / cotton blended yarn, wool / polyester blended yarn, wool / nitrile blended yarn , Polyester / viscose / acrylic blended yarn, silk / cotton yarn twisted yarn, etc. There are two types of staple fiber yarns mixed with more than two types of staple fibers, which are called blended yarns; and a yarn made of a combination (such as twisting) of more than two types of filament yarns is called mixed fiber yarns. The blending example is as follows:
Xa = Wa / W * 100% where Xa is the content of a certain component fiber, Wa is the weight of the component fiber, and W is the weight of the blended yarn. It can be divided into seven series according to the physical properties and usage characteristics of the yarn.
Series 1. Staple fiber yarn Staple fiber yarn is a kind of yarn made by various short fibers as raw materials through spinning process. Usually, the short fiber is first spun into a single yarn through the short fiber yarn forming system, and then several single yarns are combined and twisted to form a strand, and if several strands are further combined and twisted, it becomes a double twist Strands, strands are used a lot on wool fabrics. Which form of single yarn, strands and double twisted strands is used in the fabric depends on the design requirements and use characteristics of the fabric.
Series two, continuous filament yarn (filament or silk)
1. The silk filament yarn uses the cocoon silk on the cocoon silk as the raw material, and the continuous filament obtained by the composite bundling of multiple cocoon silks through the reeling process is called cocoon filament filament yarn, because it contains sericin, commonly known as raw silk and factory silk. Several filaments are combined and twisted to form a silk thread, both with glue and degummed. Silk filament is an important raw material for the silk industry and is mainly used for processing various types of silk fabrics.
2. Chemical fiber filament yarn Chemical fiber filament yarn is bundled into yarn at the time of fiber formation. It does not need to gather fibers into yarn through short fiber spinning process like chemical staple fiber, and then weave it into Compared with the two types of fabrics, the former has high production efficiency, and despite the fact that filament yarns and spun yarns made from the same kind of fibers have very different styles.
The fiber-forming polymer forms a continuous thread through the spinneret. The number of fibers contained in the thread depends on the number of spinnerets on the spinneret. The single-hole spinneret produces single-hole filament yarn. (Commonly known as glass yarn), that is, single-hole yarn, it can be used to weave fabrics with strong transparency. The filament yarn made with a multi-hole spinneret is called multifilament filament yarn, abbreviated as multifilament yarn. After twisting the multifilament filament yarn, a twisted filament yarn is formed. Several twisted filament yarns are combined and twisted to form a strand. Because the strand is composed of filaments, it is also called Double twisted yarn.
Series three, strand
Yarns formed by aggregating two or more single yarns by means of merging and twisting are called strands, or yarns for short. If necessary, multiple strands can also be gathered and twisted to form another yarn. Such yarns are called double twisted strands. The single yarn used to form the strands can be spun yarn or filament yarn; it can be of the same fiber raw material or different fiber raw materials, can be the same as spun yarn, or can be different .
Series 4. Filament / staple composite yarn composed of a combination of staple fiber and filament yarn. In the composite yarn formed by bundling staple fiber and filament yarn, the typical product is core-spun yarn. The composition of the fiber, the formation of the coating can be the filament fiber is coated on the short fiber yarn core, or the short fiber is coated on the filament yarn core, the product obtained by this yarn forming method has various components The characteristics of the fiber, and can obtain a special appearance effect. For example, polyester / cotton core yarn is used to weave burnt-out fabrics. When the cotton fibers in the fabric (pattern part) wrapped outside the polyester filament yarns are acid digested, only the polyester yarn core skeleton (polyester fibers) remains Stable performance in acid solution), so that a three-dimensional pattern can be formed on the surface of the fabric; for another example, if elastic filament is used as the inner core, the cotton fiber is wrapped around it, and woven with such yarn The fabric has a comfortable touch and elasticity. With the improvement of spinning technology, the combination of short fibers and filament fibers into yarns has also formed a combination of parallel twisting of filament yarns and staple fibers, which can provide both filament yarns and staple yarns. The style characteristics are suitable for taking into account the respective advantages of different fibers and different aggregate forms.
Series V. Fancy yarn The application of fancy yarn or fancy yarn is mainly for decorative effect. It is usually used to twist and combine irregularly with short fiber yarn or filament yarn to make Continuous, periodic patterns. Fancy yarns are generally composed of core threads, trim threads and consolidation threads, and require special processing equipment or special processes to make them. Common fancy yarns are: (1) Pimple County, (2) Spiral Flower Thread, (3) Slub Flower Thread, (4) Terry Flower Thread, (5) Knot Flower Thread, (6) Rope Yarn , (7) diamond-shaped metal strands and so on. Various types of fancy yarns can be formed into a variety of styles according to their raw material composition, appearance, feel and yarn thickness, and are widely used in clothing, decorative fabrics and hand-knitted threads.
Series 6, textured yarn
Yarn made of ordinary chemical fibers lacks bulkiness and covering performance, and it is difficult to achieve soft and elastic clothing requirements; however, chemical fibers, especially synthetic fibers, have the characteristics of adjustable control of structural properties, and full use can get a lot New style products, textured yarns are. The processing principle is a kind of yarn with high bulkiness and elasticity, which is made by plasticizing deformation characteristics of synthetic fiber after being heated.
There are two forms of the formed yarn, one is the staple fiber yarn mainly for the pursuit of bulkiness, referred to as bulked yarn. Its characteristics are bulky, soft and soft, and have a high degree of compression elasticity, such as acrylic expanded staple fiber yarn; the other is the chemical fiber filament yarn, which is mainly for the pursuit of stretch elasticity, referred to as elastic yarn, which acts under a small load external force It can have large elongation deformation and deformation recovery ability under the bottom. According to the elastic deformation capacity of elastic yarn, it is divided into high elastic yarn and low elastic yarn. High elastic yarn mainly uses nylon filament as the raw material, has large elasticity and elasticity, and has good covering performance. It is suitable for making bodysuits, sweaters, etc. Spandex is mainly made of polyester filament, and a few are made of polypropylene, nylon and other synthetic fibers. It has a certain ability to stretch and deform, but it is far lower than high elastic yarn. It basically provides the appearance of ordinary filament yarn, but Soft touch, can be used as ordinary clothing. In addition, there are some textured yarns (such as air textured yarns) made by other texturing methods. Most of them are used to imitate certain characteristics of natural fibers to make up for the appearance, texture, durability, etc. of ordinary synthetic fiber clothing. Deficiencies.
Series 7. Brief introduction of other yarns:
Some yarns used in industries, agriculture, military and other fields to meet special needs, such as cords (for tire lining), sewing threads, rubber threads, glass threads, film ribbons, various types of threads, etc. Wait.
1. Calculation method of yarn count 1. Unit â‘´, fixed length system:
A. Turks: The mass in grams of a 1000-meter-long yarn at a known moisture regain is called the special number.
Formula: Ntex = (G / L) × 1000
Where: G is the weight of the yarn (g), L is the length of the yarn (m)
B. Denier: The mass gram of the 9000-meter-long silk at a given moisture regain is called the denier.
Formula: Nden = (G / L) × 9000
Where: G is the weight of the wire (g), L is the length of the wire (m)
⑵, fixed weight system:
A. The number of common counts (public counts): the length of one gram of yarn (silk) in meters.
Formula: Nm = L / G
In the formula: 1 is the length of the yarn (silk) (m), G is the weight of the yarn (silk) (g)
B. British count (British count): The number of 840 yards that a pound of yarn has.
Formula: Ne = (L / G) × 840
In the formula: L is the length (yard) of the yarn (filament), and G is the weight (lb) of the yarn (filament).
2. Unit conversion
A. Special number Ntex and inch count Ne
Ne = C / Ntex (C is a constant, chemical fiber is 590.5, cotton fiber is 583, if it is a blended yarn, it can be calculated according to the mixing ratio, such as: T / JC (65/35) 45S yarn C = 590.5 * 65% + 583 * 35% = 588, then calculate according to the formula)
B. Inch count Ne and metric count Nm
Purified fiber: Ne = 0.5905Nm Pure cotton: Ne = 0.583Nm
Blended yarn: such as T / JC (65/35) 45S Ne = (0.5905 * 65% + 0.583 * 35%) Nm
3. Special Ntex and metric Nm
Ntex × Nm = 1000
4. Special Ntex and Denier Nden
Nden = 9 * Ntex
2. Twist and twist coefficient
1. Twist: The number of twists per unit length of the yarn. The tex (number) twisting Ttex of cotton yarn and cotton chemical fiber yarn is expressed by the number of twists within 10cm of the yarn; the inch count twist Te is expressed by the number of twists of 1 inch. The twist Tm of worsted wool yarn and chemical fiber filaments is expressed in the number of twists per meter. The relationship between the above representation methods is:
Ttex = 3.937Te = Nm / 10 Te = 0.254 Ttex = 0.0254Tm
Twisting is divided into Z twist and S twist. After twisting the fiber in the single yarn or the single yarn in the strand, the direction of the twist back is from bottom to top, from right to left, called S twist; from bottom to top, from left to right is called Z twist.
The method of representing the twist of the strands. The first letter indicates the twist direction of the single yarn, and the second letter indicates the twist direction of the strand. After twisting the strand twice, the first letter indicates the twist direction of the single yarn, the second letter indicates the initial twist direction, and the third letter indicates the multiple twist direction, for example, the single yarn is Z twist, initial twist It is S-twist and double-twist is Z-twist. The twist direction is expressed by ZSZ.
2. Twist factor special number twist factor αtex = Ttex * Ntex1 / 2
British twist factor αe = Te / Ne1 / 2
Metric twisting coefficient αm = Tm / Nm1 / 2
The relationship between the special twisting coefficient αtex and the British twisting coefficient αe is:
αtex = Ttex * Ntex1 / 2 = Te / 2.54 * 10 * 5831/2 * Ne1 / 2 (583 is the coefficient of pure cotton varieties, if it is blended or chemical fiber yarn, please refer to the change of special number and inch conversion constant C)
3. Yarn strength and single yarn breaking strength Single yarn strength: the force required to break a single yarn is called single yarn strength or single yarn strength, and the unit is cattle (N) and centimeters (CN).
Single yarn breaking strength: the ratio of single yarn strength P to yarn specific Ntex is Km or cN / tex
4. The weight of a standard weight textile material at a given moisture regain or water content is called "standard weight"
The relationship between the standard weight of textile materials and the nominal weight under actual moisture regain is:
Standard weight = Weighing weight * (100+ public moisture regain) / (100+ actual moisture regain)
Calculation of standard weight in production. The material is often dried first, and the calculation is based on the dry weight. The formula is as follows:
Standard weight = dry weight of material * (100+ public moisture regain) / 100
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